Spring! The very word evokes action, a coming to life after the harsh days of winter. Chefs look forward to the reawakening of the earth and the ocean, welcoming back new ingredients with the season and leaving behind the more hearty meat and root vegetable dishes of winter for another year. From the farms and woodlands of Britain we are privileged to have majestic stalks of green asparagus, the first broad beans, and the incomparable Jersey Royal to accompany such delights as sea trout and spring lamb.
The months of spring run fast, so as the days get warmer, and the evenings longer, we look for the perfect method of refreshment after a hot day’s work. For this reason, throughout summer, we will be serving a classic combination of Colchester rock oysters, shucked to order by our chefs, and 2002 Vintage Veuve Cliquot Champagne by the glass in the courtyard.
Other events in the coming months at the Chop House include the City Salute on Saturday 7th May. An event designed to thank British troops and their families for the sacrifices they make on our behalf, it will be an opportunity to celebrate their service, pay tribute to those injured and lost in battle, and to demonstrate the city’s esteem for them.
The sunset pageant will be held in the St.Pauls cathedral courtyard and will feature a band of HM Royal Marines, a parade of the Household Cavalry, and a fly-by from the RAF as well as many other events.
Throughout the evening we will be running a shellfish bar and meat carving stall in the courtyard and, as our contribution, we will be donating £1 for every diner and glass of champagne ordered to the charities involved. The evening promises to be a great occasion, so please come down and join us in supporting this very worthwhile cause.
The lemon sole by Peter Weeden
Now if ever there were something to make me think of spring it is the lemon sole. More obvious choices are cherry blossom, gambolling lambs, goose & gull eggs yet when these fish come back into condition after so long a winter it brings a smile to my face. They begin their lives as normal, upright ‘round’ fish but flatten as their eyes migrate & they sink to the sea bed to live out their days; a little known fact that is still refuted yet makes them all the more charming.
Often considered the inferior cousin of the Dover sole, at this time of year this is certainly a false opinion. The flesh of the lemon sole is more delicate in flavour and texture to that of the Dover, but now, in April, and for at least the next six to eight weeks it will be excellent. However, it must be exceptionally fresh.
There are two simple signs of a stunningly fresh lemon sole; first they will be as stiff as boards, secondly there will be a generous covering of slime, which can often result in a two handed struggle just to hold them when preparing for cooking.
Our pledge to buy our fish direct from fishermen, and from small day-boat operations, provides us with both a sustainable source of fish in these days of over fishing, and also the freshest fish available in London. One such operation are the Bean family.
Dylan Bean, his sister Launa and father Chris will be fishing out of the river Helford in Cornwall now that their boat, ‘The Lady Hamilton’, has been fully refitted after being holed and sunk by another boat last year. The Bean family fish static gear to reduce damage to the sea bed, targeting specific species, only leaving their nets in the water for a few hours, ensuring fish are landed in the best possible condition. Once slushed in ice water and gently packed, it reaches us overnight & is on the plate in less than 24 hours.
Other spring delights to follow will be more river Twyi sea trout, Severn salmon & Barrowgurney lambs. Asparagus is in full swing and we are dabbling with some of the early tomatoes and strawberries grown under glass which are remarkably flavoured. Wild garlic will continue for another couple of weeks before flowering and seabeet is at its best before the warmth forces it to flower.
Seasonal drinks by Tim Fordham
As we cook and eat according to the seasons, so too should we drink with them. Go for a wine displaying fresh citrus, herbal and floral notes as these are the flavours that epitomise spring. The 2004 Gewurtztraminer from Hugel captures the essence of Spring; its intense floral and spicy aromas are reminiscent of the first blossom on the trees and it pairs well with foods such as cuttlefish with a citrus salad, and is perhaps the perfect match for Bradan Orach smoked salmon with a squeeze of lemon and cracked black pepper. We also regain the desire to enjoy a glass of chilled rose as the evenings grow longer, and the 2006 Chapel Down English Rose is a perfect companion for a bright spring day.
When it comes to our featured ingredient, the lemon sole, its delicate flavour and texture mean that oak is not an essential characteristic, so I would suggest the 2006 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc from South-West France. This wine, heralding from the ‘magic valley’ near Aniane on the East banks of the River Herault, is made from the principle grape varieties of Chardonnay, Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Petit Mensang with up to 15 others involved in the blend.
The result is a truly stunning wine displaying aromas of fresh apricots, wild flowers and herbs followed by a palate of exuberant citrus with a lovely creamy, yet fresh finish and bright acidity. The acidity is enough to cut through the nut-brown butter we serve with sole without overwhelming the flavour of the fish, whilst the soft stone fruit and floral characteristics both complement the delicate nature of the fish and conjure thoughts of spring and the flora and fauna of the British Isles coming to life once more.
Sunday Lunch at the Paternoster Chop House
Bring your family and friends down for Sunday lunch and enjoy a range of children’s and adult board games, from snakes and ladders to Trivial pursuit! Newspapers and books relating to British food and drink are also available for your pleasure as the little ones battle it out around the games table.
Events & private hire at Paternoster Chop House
For larger events and parties, Paternoster Chop House offers space and flexibility. When hired exclusively, we can accommodate up to 120 for a sit down meal, or 200 for a standing reception. The large marble and oak bar can be hired for up to 75 people for standing events also, with doors opening up onto the square outside offering stunning views of St.Pauls cathedral. Menus can be tailored to suit your needs, from six course chef’s menu through to a selection of savouries suitable for standing drinks receptions.
…and the Temple Bar
Sir Christopher Wren’s Temple Bar is a unique structure that marked the gateway to the City of London for 200 years. Taken down stone by stone in 1877 and rebuilt at Theobald’s Park in Hertfordshire, it formed a grand entrance to a country estate. After suffering years of vandalism and neglect, the monument was returned to the City in early 2005 and now stands in Paternoster Square, opposite St Paul’s.
The Temple Bar, under the new ownership of the Corporation of London, is now a unique venue for receptions and business meetings. We at Paternoster Chop House have great pleasure in offering you the upper chamber of this prestigious monument. Steeped in sumptuous history this dining chamber will be an ideal venue to entertain you and your guests. Our aim is to offer you a bespoke style of service unrivalled by any other London establishment in surroundings that are truly one of a kind.
Opening Hours
Monday- Friday
Restaurant 12.00- 15.00 17.30- 22.30
Bar 11.30- 23:00
Bar Food 16.00- 22.30
Saturday
Closed
Sunday
Bar 10.30- 17.00
Restaurant 12.00- 16.00
Paternoster Chop House
Paternoster Square
Warwick Court
London EC4M 7DX
Tel: +44 (0)20 7029 9421l
Fax: +44 (0)20 7029 9410
Email: paternosterr@danddlondon.com
Web: www.paternosterchophouse.co.uk/
The Paternoster Chronicle was designed by Made Up Design